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| Most helpful customer reviews 3 of 3 people found the following review helpful. I originally couldn’t decide how I wanted to power the detector. The package comes with a 3M plastic wiretap to tap into a wire in your car for power. However, I was having a hard time finding a wire that wasn’t active when the car was turned off. I decided to get a fuse splitter (plugs into fuse and has a wire running out of it, fuse plugs into top of connector) from a local autozone and to plug it into the fuse for the radio because it cuts the power when the car is turned off. I found this to be a cleaner install in the end because I can simply remove the entire setup without leaving anything permanent on the car. As for wiring the rest, I ran the wire for the SmartCord mute button and display from the fusebox under the steering column and back towards me through the center console before velcroing the button on the side next to my leg and shifter. From there, the light is visible when it alerts and the mute button is right next to my hand on the shifter. From the button the wires go back to the door and up the inside cosmetic part of the rubber door seals. Then, I tucked it into the headliner and ran it from there to just above the rearview mirror where my detector is mounted. Overall, I’m happy with the setup. Power goes on when the car turns on, off when the car turns off. The mute button on the cord is easily accessible and my detector is stealthily hidden near the top of my windshield. 2 of 2 people found the following review helpful. My car (2004 G35 Coupe) has a fuse box right at the drivers feet, just forward of the door. I used a fuse tap to draw power from the circuit that controls the auto-dimming mirror. So the detector starts right up with the car, and turns off with it as well. I also bought a quick connect just like the one used on the included wire tap so everything was “plug and play” for me, If I need to remove it later. I mounted the “remote” on the driver’s side of the center console, where the radio and AC controls are. It’s in a perfect spot so that I can both see it (which I’ll explain why it’s important in just a bit) and can reach it by leaning forward in my seat just slightly. It also can’t be seen by officers on either side of the vehicle. If the officer is on the drivers side, the steering wheel hides it. If the officer is on the passenger side, the center console hides it. Radar detectors are legal in CA, but it’s well known the cops give you a harder time if they see you have one. From the remote, there are two wires. One which goes to the power source, and one to the detector. I tucked the wires in behind where the plastic of the dash meets the carpet and routed both wires to the fuse box. From the fuse box I ran the other wire that connects to the detector up the A-pillar and across the front of the headliner and down the little tunnel that is used for the mirror’s auto-dim wire. It then comes out just a couple inches and plugs straight into my detector. There are no wires hanging anywhere and the detector sits very close to my mirror so, combined with my tinted windows, it’s almost impossible to see. Now, on the remote there are two lights and one button. One is a blue light which indicates power (you can buy another version of this which has a red light for this, but otherwise they are identical products), a yellow light that flashes when you get an alert, and a mute button. This is really nice so you don’t need to reach up to your detector and feel for the correct button – you can just tap the one and only button on the controller. Tapping it multiple times also locks out signals if you happen to have a GPS equipped “false alarm ignoring” radar detector. I’d have to say that my one and only complaint is that the remote has two separate wires coming out of it. A great, handy improvement would be to have the two wires be connected (like molded together) for about half the length, and those that need it to split up earlier can just pull it apart (kind of like speaker wire, where it’s 2 wires together but you can split the two conduits apart because the insulation for each wire is just held together by a small seam of insulating material). That would help make install a bit cleaner. I didn’t knock of a star because it’s a small complaint, but if the manufacturer ever reads this, it’s a suggestion they can take with them. 2 of 2 people found the following review helpful. |
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